Portugal by bike, seen by Hugo Gomes: between roots, landscapes, and cycling passion

Cycling, sometimes, is not just a sport. It’s a refuge, a school of life, a link to one’s roots, and a key to discovering a region in a different way. At 21, Hugo Gomes has experienced this. A student, amateur racer, and cycling enthusiast, he shares with 3bikes his unique connection to northern Portugal, a region he returns to every year, bike in hand. Through his story, the full richness of Minho, a hilly, green, and hospitable land, reveals itself to visiting cyclists…

By Jeff Tatard – Photos: All Rights Reserved

A Young Man Shaped by Cycling

Hugo Gomes didn’t get into cycling from childhood. Like many of his generation, it was by chance – or rather, through a screen – that he discovered this passion during Covid. Seduced by videos of extraordinary triathletes like Lionel Sanders or Kristian Blummenfelt, fascinated by the competitive spirit, rigor, and thirst for victory, he first got on his bike for leisure. No high-end equipment, no training plan, just the pleasure of pedaling.

But in 2022, everything changed. Disappointed with his study choices, Hugo went through a period of doubt. Cycling then became a refuge and a driving force. « Lacking self-confidence, uncomfortable in my own skin, I found in training a way to pick myself up and believe in progress », he confides.

It was also a human encounter that marked this turning point: with the Vélo Club de Montigny-le-Bretonneux (VCMB). Very quickly, the young cyclist found a sporting family there: learning about the peloton, nutrition advice, constant encouragement… Hugo speaks with gratitude about the welcome, the commitment of leader Daniel Gagne, and the collective emulation. In three years, he has accumulated races, shared victories, and above all, a conviction: cycling is more than a sport; it’s a school of solidarity. Today, he in turn passes it on by coaching the younger ones.

From Montigny to Minho, Hugo found in cycling much more than a sport: a family, a school of solidarity, and a driving force to pass it on in turn.

Portugal as a Land of Roots and Cycling

While Hugo is licensed in Île-de-France, it’s in Portugal that he finds a more intimate dimension of cycling every summer. His mother was born in Cabaços, a small village near Ponte de Lima, and his entire family still lives there. When he rides in the Minho region, every ride is a return to his roots. « Bringing my bike back to Portugal allows me to reactivate old memories: the smell, the landscapes, the village fountain where I used to go with my grandmother, coffee at her place after a ride… »

The topography there is radically different from that of the Chevreuse Valley. Here, the terrain rises sharply, alternating between valleys and real mountains. The cobblestones, omnipresent in the villages, evoke the atmosphere of the Flemish classics. The heat and humidity demand an adaptation effort: « the watts drop, but the sensations are unique », says Hugo.

Above all, Portugal evokes a word that no translation can fully capture: saudade. This sweet melancholy of immigrants and their children, this feeling of familiarity and attachment that resurfaces at every turn, on every road. « When I return to France, I don’t have these memories that scroll by after every kilometer », he explains. Here, every ride is an inner journey.

Riding along the Rio Minho, with Spain opposite: between two banks, Hugo carves his own path, where cycling becomes a passport.

Routes and Discoveries Around Ponte de Lima

Hugo knows the roads of Minho by heart. Among his favorite rides: a forty-kilometer loop around his grandparents’ village, punctuated by the climb to Ponte de Lima, where traditional coffee awaits him at his grandmother’s house.

For training, he also likes to tackle the Oural climb, 5 to 6 kilometers long, perfect for exercises. Further on, the São Bento sanctuary, nestled in the Gerês natural park, offers magnificent landscapes and climbs worthy of the most beautiful sportives. For flat-terrain enthusiasts, head to Viana do Castelo and its beaches, an ideal playground for rouleurs.

Every cyclist will find something to enjoy: demanding climbs, maritime landscapes, shaded roads, or typical cafes to refuel.

Serra d’Arga, the Unmissable Climb

In Minho, there are roads that forge a cyclist’s character. The Serra d’Arga is one of them. It’s undoubtedly the simplest way to gain nearly 800 meters of elevation in less than an hour. A demanding climb, punctuated by forests, villages with granite houses, and the short breath that accompanies each turn. But at the summit, time stands still. The view opens onto the ocean, valleys, and ridges that intertwine as far as the eye can see. Up there, more than a reward, it’s a lesson in humility and beauty that the cyclist receives.

800 meters of elevation gained in less than an hour… and up there, the reward: a suspended landscape, where the ocean and mountains echo each other.

The Coffee Break, a Portuguese Ritual

Like in France with the village bistro’s flan, Portugal also has its sacred stop. With Hugo, it’s impossible to avoid: the coffee stop. Here, it’s not just any tartlet, but the pastel de nata, golden and crispy, enjoyed hot, accompanied by a small, strong coffee whose aroma alone summarizes an entire country. For him, as for 3bikes invited for the occasion, this break is more than just refueling: it’s a ritual, a way to immerse oneself in the local culture, to share a smile with the café owner, and to engrave the ride in memory in a way that goes beyond watts and kilometers.

Like in France with the bistro’s flan, in Portugal the break is sacred: hot pastel de nata and strong coffee, fuel for the 100 kilometers already covered.

Practical Tips for Cycling in Northern Portugal

Hugo is convinced: Portugal is a land for cycling, but it requires some precautions.

  • Hydration: prioritize insulated water bottles and plan for numerous stops at cafes or public fountains.
  • Safety: carry a reflective light and remain vigilant regarding certain road behaviors.
  • Timing: leave early in the morning to avoid the scorching heat.
  • Cash: essential for stopping at cafes or small shops.
  • Nutrition: carry enough solids and liquids, as heat and humidity test endurance.

Beyond these technical tips, Hugo emphasizes the hospitality of the locals: « the locals offer water, sometimes cakes… there’s a real enthusiasm for cycling, probably linked to the Tour of Portugal. »

In northern Portugal, fountains are cyclists’ best allies: the water is fresh, safe, and always at the foot of the mountains.

An Anecdote that Captures the Spirit

During his first cycling trip to Cabaços, a family member challenged him: to reach the São Bento sanctuary in less than two hours, a 50 km journey with 750 m of elevation gain. « For him, it was impossible. For me, it was a race », Hugo smiles. Result: 1h35, with a burning desire and the smile of a racer who knows he has turned a challenge into a personal victory.

That’s Hugo: competitive, motivated, but always attached to his roots and to those who encourage him.

Portugal, a Call to Cycling Travel

Beyond his own story, Hugo encourages all cyclists to dare the experience. « For too long I listened to those who said it was dangerous. But in reality, with a little vigilance, it’s a magnificent land, an unparalleled training ground, a unique opportunity to share your passion with your family and create memories. »

He even recommends a symbolic route: the « grandmother’s coffee ride », to combine cycling, local gastronomy (pastel de nata, bolo de arroz, tosta mista…), and conviviality.

In a word, he summarizes what cycling in Portugal is: the landscapes. « I spend more time looking at the mountains, the sea, and the sky than staring at my bike computer. And perhaps that’s the true definition of the pleasure of riding. »

Here, it’s not uncommon to encounter the country’s best: Hugo has even shared the road with Yuri Leitão, Olympic track champion in Paris.

To Conclude

Through the portrait of Hugo Gomes, an entire philosophy of cycling is expressed: cycling as a driver of personal growth, cycling as a social bond, cycling as a family anchor, and cycling as an invitation to travel…

Northern Portugal, with its terrain, its paved roads, its warmth, and its hospitality, becomes, through his words, an ideal territory for anyone wanting to combine sport, discovery, and emotion.

So, if you’re planning your vacation, don’t forget to bring your bike. Like Hugo, you’ll discover that Portugal isn’t just crossed by car or plane: it’s experienced, intensely, to the rhythm of pedal strokes…

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