How to descend better on a bike?

Descending quickly and well – and above all, feeling safe – is a matter of mastery and confidence, self-assurance and trust in your equipment. Well-modulated braking and good lines can help you feel more comfortable with this exercise. Here are some tips to make descents no longer a problem for you.

By Guillaume Judas – Photos: depositphotos.com

At some point on a bike, after a flat section, a climb, or a pass, you have to start a descent. This can be a real problem for some. Gaining speed, choosing lines, and precise braking are all technical difficulties that can make a difference. It’s not just about getting to the bottom in one piece. In a group or during an event, you need to gain speed, not lose time, and stay in contact with the peloton. You might be paralyzed just by the idea of leaning into a corner, braking, or picking up speed on a straight. Tension is often the primary cause of falls. It’s all about control and confidence. Let’s see how to descend quickly and well, without fear.

1/ Stay active on the bike for good descending

Many inexperienced cyclists passively let themselves slide down a descent, seated on the saddle and coasting. When descending slowly, the mind wanders. Reaction time in case of a problem is longer. You lack attention. You get cold. Passive descending changes the points of support on the bike and increases jolts throughout the upper body. Even if the muscles are almost at rest during the descent, fatigue accumulates, and your legs feel dead for the next climb. On the contrary, by concentrating on riding, it goes faster. You pedal between each turn, using a large gear to match the speed gained by the bike. After each tight turn, you accelerate out of the saddle. You save time and feel more energetic for the next climb. It’s not necessary to have a huge gear in the mountains, as the gradient is steep enough to go fast by adopting an aerodynamic position.

Descending actively means pedaling with the appropriate gear, or being in a speed-seeking position: balanced on both horizontal cranks with your buttocks slightly raised, knees tucked against the frame, back flattened, and hands in the drops. The position of the buttocks helps absorb shocks. Forget the “Mohoric” position, which is now forbidden by the UCI in competition. It is ineffective for those who don’t master it, and above all, relatively dangerous.

2/ Knowing how to modulate braking on descents

Tight corners and short straight sections require heavy braking and frequent accelerations, which are done in reasonable gears. This active attitude helps you stay focused and in control of your speed. You shouldn’t brake constantly. Simply raising your torso slightly will slow you down. In principle, you should use both brakes simultaneously, but modulate the pressure to avoid locking a wheel. The rear brake is used to control speed, while the front brake is more powerful. When braking harder with the front, shift your center of gravity backward so that both wheels maintain contact with the ground. Braking should be done before the curve, when both wheels are in line. Press hard on both levers to start, then modulate the pressure until you reach the desired speed while maintaining a safety margin, taking into account tire grip.

Releasing the brakes between turns is essential to prevent overheating of the braking surfaces. This is true for carbon rims, but also for aluminum rims or disc brakes. With a fluid line, you can continue to feather the brakes in the curve. Release the brakes when you are in the second part of the curve and provided you can regain speed without risk. 

3/ Choosing the right lines on descents

In very fast curves, control your line with your hips, which is easier when your knees remain close to the top tube. For more grip, lean your torso slightly to the opposite side of the curve, putting more pressure on the outside crank. Tight curves are trickier. About a hundred meters before entering the turn, raise your torso and apply the brakes powerfully before releasing slightly to modulate your speed. Ride well to the right, glancing quickly to the left to ensure no one is attempting to overtake at the same time (car, motorcycle, or another cyclist). Raise the crank on the side of the turn and put more pressure on the opposite side, which remains down. Orient your line to cut the shortest path through the middle of the turn, with your gaze directed towards the exit of the turn.

If you are on an open road, stay within the limits of your lane. If the turn is to the right and delimited by a wall or rocks, and you cannot see the exit, maintain a safety margin on the inside of the turn. If the turn is to the left, take a wide entry before orienting your line. On the exit, release the brakes and widen your line to exit on the outside of the turn. Your knee returns to the axis, and you can then accelerate if you want to quickly regain speed. Hairpin turns are technically easier because the speed when leaning into the turn is relatively reduced. The descents of large passes, with their well-designed turns, are simpler than those of small backcountry passes, many of which close up on the exit, forcing you to straighten your line or risk going off the road.

4/ Tackling descents on wet roads

Rain during long descents poses several problems. The cold slows reflexes, visibility when rain hits your face, and of course, reduced grip. Heavy rain is less dangerous than drizzle or showers. Grip conditions are then consistent from one turn to the next. You need to adapt your speed and, above all, ride more smoothly. If the road is soaked, there’s little risk of skidding. However, it’s imperative to lengthen braking distances, as it takes one or two wheel rotations for the pads to clear water from the rim sidewalls before biting. With discs, while braking remains powerful, keep in mind that the limit is always tire grip.

Changing conditions are trickier, when one part of the road is dry and the other wet. Beware of sections in the undergrowth, in the shade, or near a watercourse, as the asphalt there is wetter. Smoother riding means less leaning of the bike, less reliance on tire grip, avoiding sudden braking and jerky accelerations. Falls mainly occur at the entrance to a turn, when leaning into it. Widen your lines as much as possible to make round turns.

5/ Having equipment in good condition

The balance on 25 or 28 mm tire widths is not as precarious as it seems, especially with speed. However, you are never safe from skidding on an oil slick or a tire blowout, or simply a loss of grip on a wet road. Tires are therefore paramount for this type of exercise, as they are the only contact with the road. More powerful braking, or better modulation with disc brakes, does not alone make descents safer. 

It is therefore better to avoid tires that are too light in the mountains, or too specific for particular conditions. They must ensure minimum puncture resistance, but also good grip on dry and wet ground. The flexibility of the sidewalls optimizes road holding by conforming to terrain irregularities. For wheels with rim brakes, only use carbon clincher wheels under two conditions: that you are experienced and do not brake continuously (to avoid overheating the braking surface), and that you ride with high-end wheels, designed to withstand these kinds of conditions. Otherwise, prefer tubulars, aluminum wheels (safer and more versatile), or even discs, even if this system requires strict maintenance. And of course, you won’t venture into the mountains without having previously checked your cables, pads, hydraulic system, and rims. 

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